The engine runs and the gears all work, but I need to go through it really good.

Here is what I have done so far.
  • Cleaned and polished outer cases
  • wire brushed barrel and head
  • Replaced all seals
  • Completely cleaned 34 Mikuni
  • Replaced wire harness
  • Set points timing and phase
  • Installed new UNI filter
  • Filled with fresh tranny oil, 600cc Maxima 80 wt 2 cycle transmission oil
  • Replaced pipe, CR High Performance

The cases cleaned up pretty well. I buffed the outer covers, but would like to bead blast the center cases, head and cylinder fins when I go through the motor later.

The header pipe is a little pitted on the under side. I will keep an eye on it. OK for now.

Even though I am holding off on the engine work for now, I did replace all of the seals including the crank seals, even the large diameter oring for the ignition cover. Don't need any air or oil leaks.

Underneath the clutch cover lives all new friction and slip discs with the springs set at light tension. That is an NOS kickstarter. The old one would lock to the side. It flopped out a lot.

I tore the 34 Mikuni completely apart, cleaned, and reassembled. I even polished the float bowl needle. A new carb adaptor boot was also installed. Also notice the plumbing for two petcocks. That's a little tight because the petcocks point down and you run out of elevation to get the filter in line as well.

I painted the coil mounts but sanded off the paint where the mount meets the coil and where the mont meets the frame, for good grounding. Of course that means I sanded off the paint on the frame as well. I did put in new 7mm copper core wires with good NGK plug caps. The three wire harness from the magneto case to the coils was replaced with 16/3 external extension cord wire. The colors are black, green and white (instead of blue). Inside the ignition cover I wrote white = blue, for future reference. The wires and connectors were all properly tinned and soldered.

I had to do a little twisting on the pipe tabs to get the pipe mounted properly. I also had to send a drill through to help with the final alignment. The pipe mount bolt is a 10mm grade 10.9 bolt with flat washers and a lock washer. Notice how the silencer passes in front of the axle. I need to pull the axel and put it in from the other direction, otherwise I will need to pull the pipe to get the wheel off.

All said and done, I had to make a "factory dent" to clear the shock mount. Shouldn't affect performance, especially at my speeds. :-)

I guess I should have dusted before I snapped this picture.

I am open to suggestions.

Craig Walker